Monday, May 28, 2018

How to Sew a 50's Novelty Skirt With No Pattern Part 2

For those of you who missed part one, this is a tutorial on how to sew a gathered skirt (also called a dirndl). In the first part I talked about how much fabric you need and how to cut out your pieces. Now we will sew them!
Ok so if you followed the first part you should have two or three skirt panels and a waistband. I am making one skirt from a 45" fabric and one from a 60" fabric. I have also decided to do a curvy one so you can see the example of a three panel skirt.  I took pictures as a sewed and did all three skirts at once, so the fabric is different in some of the pics, but the instructions should be the same. Here is a picture of my three panel skirt pieces and waistband:


The first thing you want to do is take your two (or three) panels and sew them together with the right sides together to make a tube. If you have any raw edges you should serge or zigzag the short edges of the skirt pieces before you sew them together. I didn't do that with these skirts because the selvedge edge is the sides of the skirt panels. This will probably be how yours are too if you cut your panels like I did.

After you sew your panels together you should have a tube. Our next step is to put a zipper in. 
You technically don't have to have a zipper. Some of my vintage skirts just leave that part open because the waistband will overlap slightly, but you will want to wear a slip because it might gape. I am going to put in a zipper however, because it's more finished that way.

pick one of the seams that you just sewed to make your tube and iron the inside of the seam flat. It should look like this: 




Take your zipper and lay it in the seam so that the wrong side of the zipper faces you. Pin in place. Notice how the zipping part of the zipper doesn't go all the way up. This is because we need a few inches to wiggle into the waistband.



Sew from the top of the zipper to where you pinned the last pin. I usually unzip the zipper a bit to get started, then lift the pressure foot and scootch it under to get it out of the way.



  When you reach the last pin lift the pressure foot and rotate your skirt. 

Sew across zipper teeth carefully ( I often just hand turn the wheel at this point). Lift pressure foot and rotate skirt again, then sew up the other side. I usually have to pick open part of the seam the zipper is sitting on so I can move the head out of the way.



When you get the zipper sewn in then you can pick the rest of the seam stitches from the front to where the zipper stops. Then you can set aside the skirt panels and we can work on the waistband.

First we want to interface the waistband. Interfacing is a webby looking fabric that comes in sew in and iron in. I like the iron in, because why wouldn't I? You can get interfacing at the craft store, and any feather- medium weight will be fine. Interfacing is what takes your waistband from Clark Kent to Superman strength. it helps the fabric take the stress of being wrapped around you. Here's my three waistbands with interfacing attached to the back:


After you iron the interfacing, fold the waistband in half and iron it, so it looks like this:


Then you fold the edge of the top under 1/2" and iron it. You are creating a line to sew the skirt on to. It should look like this:


Finally you iron the other side so it will look just like the first side you ironed.you will have an open ended strip with a folded over part on each side. Here's what they look like open and closed:



Now that you have all your seams ironed you can open it back up and flip it so the right sides are facing. Then you want to sew the ends together, and flip it rightside so it has finished ends.


So now we have a waistband and a skirt. Ready to put them together?
We currently have a giant tube with a zipper and a waistband. In order to get the tube to fit into the waistband,  we need to gather it. Sew across the top of the skirt panels with a loose stitch. Then pull the threads to gather the panels so it will fit in the skirt. 
Remember that we made the waistband a bit bigger when we cut it out to leave room for a button or snap? Don't forget to leave that sticking out of the side when you gather the skirt. If you are making the curvy version with three panels the process is the same. The only difference is that you will have more fabric to work with.

Sew the gathered panel together so that the right sides are together, following the crease on the waistband you made when you ironed. Then you can flip the raw edge of the skirt panel inside the pocket that the waistband is and pint it in place. Still with me? Here's what it looks like:

What it looks like when you sew it.

After you flip it and pin the skirt up inside the waist.

Space left for button
Ok you are in the home stretch! All you have to do to finish the waistband is sew along the part you just pinned, which will close the waistband and finish the skirt's functional part. The only thing left to do now is iron flat a hem and sew it down. I serged mine but you can fold it under. I also did a wide 4" hem because I like the way it hangs, but you can do a smaller one if you like.


Now you can sew a button on or a snap and it's done! Here's a few pics of my finished skirts:








Woohoo new skirts!

Hope that helps everyone! If you have any questions please feel free to ask. If you make any skirts I would love to see pictures of them!
If you want to see more pinup and retro DIY's and tutorials follow my blog!








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